CHINATOWN octobre 19, 2007

 

Chinatown is fascinating.  Despite of  extensive renovations undertaken by the government, Chinatown have kept its charm. This area was become at the end of 19th noisy and dirty. Chinatown found a new life where the old Chinese traditions persist while the modernity take place step by step. A contrast exists between the Chinese’s relax attitude and businesses. The atmosphere is full of different odours. I’ve been there last Thurday with a friend.This district, located at the south of Singapore River, was divided by Raffles (Singapore’s founder) into separate areas for each of the main dialect group in the 19th: Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hainanese and Foochow.

We started our walk from Tregganu Street where we ate dim sum. It consists of different small dishes in bamboo baskets : steamed or deep-fried. It was cheaper and delicious! We visited the shophouses at Pagoda Street : there are antique shops and handicrafts stores. The Chinatown Heritage Centre, restored shophouses, shows the history of Chinatown but we didn’t go there because it’s very touristic…

After, you reached the oldest Hindu Temple of Singapore, « Sri Mariammam Temple »in South Bridge Road. It was built in 1827 and rebuilt in 1843. I like its sharp colors and characters.

We saw the « Buddha Tooth Relic Temple Singapore(BTRTS) dedicated to the Maitreya Buddha called the Future Buddha. It’s a wonderful red building with 7-storey.

We acrossed Ann Sian Hill, on left we stopped into Club Street, many clan associations were located here in the past. Now, it’s a famous place for restaurants and bars. We went down a bridge to go towards the one of oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore, the »Thian Hock Keng Temple ». It was built between 1839 and 1842. This Taoist Temple is composed of several houses with gold roof.

Unfortunately, I didn’t try the best yet : having a cup of tea in the largest teahouse in Singapore, the »Tea Chapter ». Queen Elizabeth II stopped there on 10 October 1989, you can imagine…

BUGIS octobre 11, 2007

 Yesterday afternoon, I decided to walk to Bugis district. It took me 15 minutes by bus.

At first, I went to the »Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple » located in Waterloo Street. This Chinese temple, built in 1884 is popular. The devotees of Guan yin, the Godess of Mercy, go to pray every eve of Chinese New Year. Outside, there are fresh lotus vendor. Lotus symbolises purity.

I went straight, I’ve seen but unfornately didn’t visit the « Sri Krishnan Temple » because it was closed for washing. The nearest of these both temples and their community shows the harmony between religions in Singapore.

 After a little part of spirituality, let’s go to concrete things as shopping! I entered in « Bugis Street » : Singapore’s largest shopping street. I had already visited it in the evening in last May. There are hundreds of stores of fashion clothes and local food. Bargaining is recommanded. In the 70s, this street was a red light district because of tranvestites.

Then, I had a quick tour to « Bugis Junction », my favourite shopping center. I like its original shophouse façades and its architecture with a glass roof. Located where the old Bugis Street used to be, It was built in 1995. In the middle, there is an interactive fountain. This complex is a combination of shopping center, hotel and office. You can cut your hair for only 10 SGD in 10 minutes at the basement near the MRT Station. You have a numerous foodcourt at the level 2 and restaurants at level 3.

At last, I went to « Liang Seah Street » and « Purvis Street » where I’ve seen elegant shophouses painted in pastel colours which were built in the 1930th.

I love Bugis : this area combines the old-style with the modernity.

JOO CHIAT : PERANAKAN PLACE octobre 7, 2007

There are differents communities in Singapore. Peranakans are the descendants of the early Chinese community who settled in the Malay Archipelago from the 17th. The Peranakan culture is a mix of the Chinese end Malay culture.  They adopted a strong influence in their food, language and dressing. After the arrival of Raffles in 1819 in Singapore, they moved from Malacca to Singapore.Peranakan culture was famous for beadwork, embroidery and fine vessels in expensive materials such as gold, silver, porcelain, used to traditionnal rites (weddings, birthdays, funerals). Their motifs were full of symbols : fertility, happiness and longevity.

Last thursday afternoon, I started my walk from East Coast Road. I discovered a fabulous district, I can compare it as a village. What I preferred was the architecture, the Peranakan House is a mix of Corinthian columns and Mediterranean looking windows with ornamentals Chinese symbols. It reminded me of Baroque style. Over all, I loved the pastels tones of shophouses. I’ve seen a variety of colors : yellow, orange, green, pink…

In Joo Chiat Road, the most of shophouses were built in 1928. In Koon Seng Road (see the picture above), a street on the right, the two facing row of terrace houses built in the 1920s are representative of « Singapore eclectic style. These last ones are characterized by architectural influences of Malay, Chinese and European traditions. Peranakan house has three identical windows with floral or birds motifs and brick-red roof. At the juntion of Joo Chiat Lane and Tembelling Road, there is Kuan Im Tng Temple, a orange Chinese Temple, dedicated to the odess of Mercy. It was etablished in 1919.In Mangis Road, there is a little blue pastel house dated 1932 that has escaped demolition.

In this district, you have at every corner foodcourt.

The famous dish name « laksa ». It consists of noodles, coconut milk, chilli, dried prawns, spices and herbs. Unfortunately, I have never tasted it yet. But, soon…

http://www.peranakan.org.sg/

LITTLE INDIA octobre 1, 2007

You have two ways to go to India : either you take a flight or you go to « Little India »(which is less expensive). I went there last saturday morning. It was great! The atmosphere smelled jasmine flowers, Indian spices and coloured shops along the streets.

I started to buy fresh vegetables and fruits at « KK market » : a typical local wet market near « Little India » station. This is the most popular and cheaper market of Singapore. Why do Singaporeans call it « wet market »? Because they wash floor with a lot of water.

Then, I walked to the oldest street of this district : « Serangoon Road » completed in 1828. There are numerous beautiful sari shops.

A popular destination is « Little India Arcade », sells South Indian handicrafts.

« Dunlop Street » is famous for its restaurants. A big part of Indians lives in this area for cheap price. Shops expose garland flowers.

It was amazing to immerse myself to « Upper Dickson Road ». In this street, I listened the last tubes of Bollywood Stars. I enjoyed it.

Must see is « Sri Veeramakaliammam » (easy to spell, isn’t it?) Temple on Serangoon Road. This magnificient Hindu temple was built in 1855.

I was really enjoyed to visit this ethnic enclave.

CLARKE QUAY septembre 23, 2007

Clarke Quay is situated right on the Singapore River. It’s a very famous place for nocturnal hangouts.  This area has recently undergone a refurbishment. In the past, there were industrial factories. Now, colored shops took their place.

We decided to have dinner last saturday. We didn’t book and we ate in a malay restaurant. We were really disappointed because it was expansive and we were always hungry… The next time, We will book at the indian restaurant « Ivory-The Indian Kitchen » which seems to be not bad.

You can find ultra-chic restaurants and bars, pubs. Some of them held my attention : The Clinic; Fashion Bar. Indeed, The first has a very morbid concept. You have a seat in wheelchair; you drink using a perfusion. If you want more intimacy, there are white panels which separate you from the others. No thanks, those who worked like me in hospital will understand… The second one is for Fashionistas girls : this is the bar of « the fashion TV ». Very « branchouille »…

You have also the forbidden city which is a  lounge bar-retaurant. It is in an oldest chinese building. I didn’t try yet. But, of course, i’m waiting  the visits of my friends to inaugurate it!

On the otherside of the Singapore River, we walked along Riverside point. We were lucky because the Singapoureans celebrate « the Mid Autumn Festival ». There were a numerous lanterns and coloured decorations thus an impressive dragon. During these two weeks, they buy mooncakes, a kind of cake countaining egg and lotus flower. I tried it but too much sweet.